Month: June 2018

Equador – Galapagos Islands

I have swum with sharks, tortoises, rays and penguins. Nearly tripped over seals and came close to mashing marine iguanas under foot many times. Played underwater tag with frolicking sea lions and lost (never really got close to winning, maybe they have had a bit more practice). Seen multitudes of birds with names such as 'Black Noddy' and 'Blue Footed Boobie'. Vivid red crabs mingle with endemic pelicans. In fact, many times there are many different types of animals all within the same small area. They not only ignore each other but also the visiting humans. Staring contest with a sea lion anyone? Believe me, you are going to lose (if they don't get bored and decide to fall asleep with you right in front of them).

Welcome to the Galapagos Islands.

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Decision time happened around 3 weeks ago as to whether to blow a hole in the budget and make a trip here or to miss out again. Decision made, flight booked and then the search for a last minute 'cheaper' cruise option that fitted within the 11 days of my flights. Luckily I found a great boat, the 'Monserrat', with a upper berth cabin for the 8 day jaunt. Food was great, all of my fellow travelers hit it off really well, and the crew and our guides, William and Danilo, were excellent.

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An average day starts with breakfast at 7am, then the morning activities would usually involve two of either a cruise in one of the inflatables, a walk or a snorkel. Lunch is at 12pm followed by a different combination of the mornings activities at a different site. Dinner follows at 7pm. Very regimented, but so very rewarding.

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If I was to complain about anything it was that I arrived at Galapagos fit and trim. I left with quite a few more added pounds as those all you can eat buffets were great in one way (for 8 blissful days I didn't have to search out for restaurants or hotels, so very easy and so very, very nice) but probably not so good for any near term future hikes that may follow. Still mega veges were consumed and my body probably needed a break from chicken and rice.

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Now in the capital of Equador, Quito. I have found Equador rather strange. Been sick twice with food related problems but also have had some great tucker. Stayed in Guayaquil for a few days before and one after Galapagos. For a bustling city during the day it takes on a dodgy personna after 7pm when the streets become cleared of people and the feeling of safety dissapates, with only scattered men hanging around street corners and some grouped together elsewhere. I think I'll eat in tonight became the norm after the first night's very fast walk between hotel and restaurant. Anyway all turned out fine, leaving Quito tomorrow heading north towards Columbia. Not sure where I will be going but somewhere it will be.

Peru – Huarez Region

Peru

Well I am now in a town called Trujillo and will be leaving Peru in a couple days for Equador. I'm really stunned on just how much I have enjoyed this country. On my previous visit I didn't rate it highly but the sights, hiking and mostly, the food (so, so many creviches) have certainly changed my mind as to if I ever come back around these parts this place is a 'must see'. The town markets provide such good grub (food not insects), juices and fresh fruit all at such low prices. Eating well here is definitely not an issue.

Huarez

Well after all that spiel I didn't eat from the markets in Huarez. I found more upmarket restaurants and ate great steak, pizza, calzones (yum) and pasta. There are quite a few tourists here (not mega but you are not surprised when you see them in the street) and with this amount the town is big enough to support good restaurants. Huarez is situated within the Cordillera Blanca mountain range and sits at just over 3,000m. It is used as the base for the many treks in the area of which I took two.

Laguna 69 Trek

The Laguna 69 trek is a one dayer that starts by leaving your hotel at 5am (again) for the 3hr bus journey to where the hike begins. You and your mates (and there are a few) start the trek relatively easily along a valley floor before the first of 3 climbs arrive. A lot of altitude huffing & puffing (but not blowing the house down) later you arrive at the lake @ 4,600m. Beautiful place with a torquoise lake back dropped by a rocky cliff situated below jagged snow capped mountain peaks. If I wasn't so wreaked I might have enjoyed it more. I had had a cold for the previous 3 days and admittedly I struggled at times with my energy levels low but in the final analysis - made it up, then down, and lived to tell the tale.

Santa Cruz Trek

After my brush with exhaustion on the Laguna 69 trek I started this trek with much trepidation. I had had the extra day's rest and hoped my recovery from sickness would be sufficient. The Santa Cruz trek is a relatively short 4 day, 3 night 50km walk that starts at 3,900m and at its highest reaches 4,750m. From all my readings it is suggested it is one of South America's (if not the world's) premier hikes as it packs in stacks in such a short time. I am no expert so all I can say is it was the best hike I've ever done. Day 1 is relatively easy as you meander through villages set in lush green valleys with the surrounding hills instinctively rounded in shape contrasting to their nearby snow capped cousins with their sharp craggy rock faces. My group consisted of two Danish sisters, Anne & Ida, our guide Jesus, and finally the odds and ends man, Wheldon. Wheldon's job was interesting as he would be the last to leave in the morning as he packed everything up, loading it onto the donkeys and then zoom past us during the day so that when we would arrive at camp, in the evening, all was ready. Altitude didn't exist in Wheldon's world and fortunately for me (to a lesser extent - for this trip) it didn't for me as well. Which was good as the second day we climbed to the highest point of the hike at 4,750m at Punta Union, a change of approximately 850m from our camp the night before. It was tough going of course, the snow covered mountains had appeared with their glaciers caught between peaked ridges that leapt from the mountain faces. At the time I would have told you that I was always out of breathe, if, I hadn't always been out of breathe. But overall I was really happy, no altitude sickness and fuel left in the tank once we made it to the top. And at the top, what great views. Another turquoise lake surrounded by (yes I could repeat myself but just look at the photos). The difference compared to many of the other views was that here you could peer into the future as you could see the valley stretched out below into the vast distance, the way we would be traversing in the next few days. After a rest we started our way down for 2 hours eventually reaching camp that on this night was going to be at 4,200m.

 

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There were times during this trip that I questioned why I bought such an expensive sleeping bag as everytime it had been cold previously I had been supplied with enough blankets to keep a possie of shorn sheep snug. Well, sleeping at 4,200m in the Cordillera Blanca answered this question. Waking warm and cosy at our usual wake at time of 6am (sleep in it seems when compared to usual) while the tent and surrounds were frozen made me think the investment was worthwhile.

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The 3rd day involved a side excursion to another turquoise lake (surprised anyone?) named Lake Arbuaycocha, but this one was fed directly by a glacier that snaked from the mountain above ending at the lapping aqua blue waters (gee I am getting sick of using the word turquoise) of the lake. After this visit it was back to the main trail which we used to make our way down to sandy valley below. A long slog later alternating between the valley floor and its walls we ended up at our camp at now the relatively comfortable altitude of 3,600m.

The last day was relatively easy as we walked the final 4 hours back to the town of Cashapampa. Job done. Really happy. Great trek (nearly forgot, great job by Jesus, always there to answer our questions and cooked some really good tucker.) Also good luck to Anne who is going to Melbourne, Australia for an exchange program and Ida, who has the unenviable position of having to decide if she will be taking another year off from her studies. The last thing about these girls is they should not download and watch Netflix's Gossip Girl - it can't be good for your health!!

 

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