Kyrgyzstan

Four Stans and a Man

I have absolutely loved Central Asia. The people are friendly, there is heaps to do, great historical sights, good hikes as well as many other things to see. In this blog I have included 4 of the 5 'Stan' countries I visited. The last is worthy of its own posting. The countries included are Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, Uzbekistan and Tajikistan (alhough the latter is primarily covered in a previous post regarding a 8 day jeep excursion to the Pamir Highway). Please note that to change things up a bit the following is not in any type of chronological order.

Short Story No.1

"I've seen lots of Australia" (Samarkand, Uzbekistan)

In my 5 days in Samarkand I never came across a large supermarket, and medium supermarkets were still rather small and their limited aisles seemed to cater for future diabetes cases rather than for any health aficionados. Thus when I saw a supermarket that seemed that it may even have a remote possibility of something different I would make the effort to investigate. In seeing one of these I deviated from my trip back to my hotel only to be stopped by a local who asked in very broken English from where I came. On giving the reply Australia his face lit up and positivity flowed as he showered me on how great a country Australia was. "Australia good" was repeated continuously. It seems my friend lived in Australia 8 years before where he worked as a painter in Sydney and he recounted on how he earned $8000 a month. His eyes lit up as he reminisced his past life. I was about to ask why he left Australia between the continued "Australia good" when he changed his line to "even Australia jail good". Thought I'd leave it at that never finding out how he ended up in jail and if he was comparing Australia's finest to Uzbekistan's. I thought it was a definite possibility.

Interesting Facts (as I saw them) No.1

No.1 (especially Kyrgyzstan)

 Smiles are expensive in Kyrgyzstan as many people have mouthfuls of gold teeth. Not fillings, teeth. Even some younger people.

No.2 (Uzbekistan)

If you exclude all the older cars (like Ladas), vans and trucks i think I can safely say at least 80% of all cars in Uzbekistan are Chevrolets. Not sure how they wrangled this one but someone did a mighty fine job. They're everywhere.

No.3 (Tashkent, Uzbekistan)

You always get asked from which country you are from. This is pretty much Central Asia wide. Most often after saying 'Australia' you get the reply back of 'kangaroo'. Once while I was in the main bazaar in Tashkent a butcher asked the question in very broken English. After I replied his reply set me back a few steps. Rather than the normal kangaroo he responded with 'Skippy' and did a kangaroo pose. He didn't speak English so I didn't find out how he knew this Australian icon. On the television? Couldn't be could it, (?) after all it's Uzbekistan.

Short Story No.2

"Haircut Talk" (Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan)

Anyone who reads my blogs know I hate haircuts but there comes a time when it has to be done. After a really bad haircut in Oman my hair had grown to the stage where people would initially only see a weirdo character and turning into a loner wasn't part of my perceived travel itinerary. So in Bishkek I checked out a few hairdressers (from the outside) before waiting until 8.30 on my last night and forcing myself to go into one. I started to get a cut by a lady whose English was mightily limited and mid-stream on trying to explain how a 'bowl cut' wasn't what had I asked for the owner came over and took over. Her English was very good (as were her haircutting skills) and while talking about languages she recounted how she could never speak to her grandparents directly as they had come from Korea and they had never learnt the local languages. She would always have to talk through her parents to have a conversation. She had never learnt Korean. I was fascinated. As I contemplated this thought she then went on to say that she couldn't speak the national language (Kyrgyz) although she had grown up in the country. It seems the Russians (when in control) would not teach the local languages, just Russian and English. So as it is now widely used and spoken (by the elderly and young) she cannot read, speak or write it and has to see a Russian equivalent to understand. Hard to imagine this for a person who comes from Australia.

Interesting Facts (as I saw them) No.2

No.4 (mainly Kyrgyzstan)
It seems most rural people own livestock of some sort. As summer approaches and the temperature rises shepherds gather their goats, cows, sheep and horses and make their way up into the mountains, usually via the main highways. There they set up a camp of summer yurts and live there while the animals graze. In these areas the yurts are additionally used as accommodation for travellers to sleep. Some put on majestic feeds and the accommodation is top class. Around the end of September with the days shortening and the temperatures dropping the animals are returned to the villages below and are housed over the winter period.

No.5 (Kazakhstan, Uzbekistan)
Subways in Almaty, Kazakhstan are North Korea deep (that's a long way down). Subways in Tashkent, Uzbekistan are tourist attractions, each with it's own distinct flavour whether that be chandeliers or spaced out paintings of spaced out astronauts. Also if you ever need a policeman in Tashkent go to a subway. Either it is a conscious decision on where police should be or that's where they hang out.

No.6 (Kyrgyzstan)
Fermented horse milk is not as bad as what other tourists harp on about. I was staying in a yurt during a 3 day hike when I saw the lady of the tent churning the milk. She was only too happy to give me some. It was unique, smoky sort of flavour with some underlying evil but just like vegemite, which also has an evil entwined in its flavour, I quite liked it. Also, horse meat sausages aren't too bad either. Especially when you've been hiking all morning and your guide doesn't mention that they are made from horse until your 3rd sandwich. I had been enjoying them up until then and decided it would be silly to stop enjoying them now.

Short Story No.3

"All I expected was some simple passport photos" (Osh, Kyrgyzstan)

India and Nepal had chewed up all my passport photos and since I needed more for visas I decided to pop into a camera store. I started to consider if this was the right place when the lady asked me for the size. Aren't all passport photos the same size? Anyway, we let a ruler figure it out. She then took two photos, asked me to sit down and went over to her computer. I sat patiently while she tapped away at the keyboard. I could not see her screen but I was thinking this seems to be taking a long time. I dismissed my thoughts thinking that maybe their software was ancient. She then rang someone and was getting instructions as she would ask, wait, type and respond. I was getting old. Eventually the phone call ended and she showed me her computer screen. Stunned, she had super-imposed a suit onto me (thanks photoshop) and made my hair rounded and very neat. In fact I think she made me look very Persian. All without asking. I wouldn't have minded so much but I think I might look better than I normally do! She was happy with her work but I didn't use the photos.

Interesting Facts (as I saw them) No.3

No.7 (Almaty, Kazakhstan)
They have a Red Bull soap box race (Australians call it a billy cart race) in Almaty. Not sure I would say I was lucky to have arrived the day before it was on, but that is what happened.

No.8 (Uzbekistan)
I think everyone should start doing this one. When you either greet a person or shake their hand you place your left hand on your heart. Nice.

No.9 (Samarkand, Uzbekistan)
For the people of Uzbekistan every 12 years has a significant meaning as you enter a new stage of your life. It is also astrological as, for example, the year of the rabbit is repeated. To celebrate this cycle Uzbeks have large celebration on any birthday divisible by 12. This explains while walking down an alleyway and acknowledging some people in the street I was dragged (maybe a bit strong a word, but close) into the house, fed local dishes and toasted many shots of vodka. All for a boy's 12th birthday. There was one local dish I really enjoyed so I kept repeating its name to myself so I wouldn't forget it. Bloody vodka.

Short Story No.4

"You could write a story about Mitchell " (Dushanbe to Khojand, Tajikistan)

Mitchell is I would guess around 50. He told me he still is a boxer and loves to ride his bike through the mountains which is apt as there are many mountains between Dushanbe and Khojand. Mitchell also is a rally car driver and today Mitchell just happens to be my taxi driver. Mitchell loves driving fast and I believe Mitchell wanted to show how good a rally car driver he is just in case there were any foreigners in the car who doubted his story. When Mitchell looked in the mirror and asked if I was ok I gave the not good, not bad horizontal wave of the hand. It didn't slow Mitchell up. I guess Mitchell thought I was not so good because of car sickness rather than a life threatening disease, which happened to be him. It led to me being placed into the front of the car and closer to the action. We stopped for lunch. Including Mitchell there were 4 of us in the car. A girl who had once sat in the front seat and a 30's something man that had the tendency to make phone calls and shout at the person at the other end. This man was an interesting specimen. He had paid extra for the unused seat in the back. Although we had only spoke a few words at the beginning of this 4 hour ordeal he paid for my lunch as well as for fruit I had when we stopped at a roadside stall. On the other hand, Mitchell loved talking to me and at the end of the journey he gave me a big hug. Pretty sure this is a first for me, hugging a taxi driver at the end of a trip but I reciprocated, I think, out of relief and the realization that yes, I am still alive.

Other things I want to remember:

- Coal is commonly used for heating. It is not unusual to see trucks transporting it or in smaller cities see it dumped by the road for people to come and buy.

- Cotton is everywhere in Uzbekistan and also found in Tajikistan. Fields of white cotton balls can often be seen as well as pickers collecting the crop in autumn. In Uzbekistan there are reports of forced labor (4 million people?) being used to keep their crops competitive in this globalized world. Not good.

- Are there more speed detectors and radar guns than cars in Central Asia? No, but that doesn't mean there ain't plenty. Tough life on the road in these parts with radar guns everywhere in some Central Asian countries (Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan), as well as their opposing radar detectors in the long distance taxis. From what I saw the taxi's and the detectors are winning. In the countries with fewer radar devices police just love to pull you over for a small fee. That is why when travelling for a jaunt between Bishkek and Jalabad in Kyrgyzstan I want to tip my hat to our driver who did not own a radar detector, but instead, had the uncanny ability to remain focused for the entire 9 hour trip and at the first site of a car in the distance slowed down considerably to ensure his funds went to more worthy causes. Well done! Drivers also seem to think seat belts are a hindrance to driving rather than a life saving device. Except for a chap in Uzbekistan all didn't wear the belts unless they came up to a check point whereby the belt goes on but then again off as soon as it was passed. Not sure that this attitude is a long term smart move.
- Are the very common pomegranates better in a drink than eating the actual fruit? Are you supposed to eat all those thousands of seeds?

- Boxing bag machines which let you know how hard you hit a punch bag are taken very seriously in Osh, Kyrgyzstan. Who needs a shirt anyway?

Quick Summary of Places Visited

(not much to see here unless you are me):

Almaty, Kazakhstan - Cosmopolitan, Cafes, Tree-lined streets

Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan - Good Hairdresser, Huge Electronics Mall

Kochkor, Kyrgyzstan - Possibly the friendliest kids in the world, they all say hello.

Jalabad, Kyrgzstan - Student accommodation is poor (smells like damp), joined many ladies for dinner but had to pay (not sure if it was a restaurant or not, just saw them through a window in some type of store and they rustled me up a feed, nice food and had a good time)

Osh, Kyrgyzstan - Stayed in a hostel so met many good travellers, US dollars from ATM

Dushanbe, Tajikistan - Great Korean restaurant

Khojand, Tajikistan - Happy to be alive after taxi

Tashkent, Uzbekistan - Got my Turkmenistan visa (so, so very happy)

Samarkand, Uzbekistan - Registan, Gur-e-Amir & Shah-i-Zinda my favorite historical sites of this city (there are many)

Bukhara, Uzbekistan - Strange hotel manager (a starer), Ferris wheel ride, some nice sights but not the jail

Khiva, Uzbekistan - Best place for pictures of historical buildings

Tajikistan & Kyrgyzstan – The Pamir Highway

The initial ride was along mainly flat roads as we headed towards the Tajikistan border which we would cross the following day. After a few hours we started to see the mountains which would envelop our days ahead. The scenery was fantastic with ever-lasting plains of straw colored fields stretching towards the backdrop of the rugged snow-capped mountains. Our initial destination was the 7100m mountain named Lenin Peak named after, well you know who. We veered off the main road, through a village (Sary-Moghol) where we would stay later that evening. The name 'Abdul Razzaq' became legend within the car and would be repeated often throughout the trip. Who is Abdul? The question should be where is Abdul as in this little town trying to find him led to our driver repeating his name continuously. Abdul was then taken aback by my repeating his name when he was finally discovered. A legend in our own minds (and our hotel owner) whose name was one of the main strange forms of communication with our Englishless driver. After locating him we proceeded down the dirt road for an hour's drive to our intended destination, for a short hike near Lenin Peak. It really was a wonderful place helped by the lowering sun and fine weather. High altitude lakes, multi-colored mountains and snow covered peaks made the camera click continuously. Yaks aplenty although when I got too close to a female a male started a charge towards me. It stopped, my heart restarted. I made a detour. Phew! There were yurts here where people could stay overnight. I can see the appeal. Eventually we made our way back down to Abdul.

After an initial petrol finding mission that was unsuccessful we set off the next morning. We started going south towards Tajikistan heading into the mountains proper. The Kyrgyzstan and the Tajikistan border posts are around 20km apart because, well, I don't know. We encountered our first pass over the mountains (4,282m) and due to trucks being stuck on the frozen dirt tracks we too became bogged as we tried to navigate around them. The pushing of the car by us gringos was useless but some gravel thrown under our wheels gave us (eventually) the grip we needed (good teamwork by the truck drivers). Both border posts were easy to get through. The main issue here is to ensure you have a GBAO addition to your Tajikistan visa (an additional US$20) as this is required in this region. Now in Tajikistan our intended destination this day was salty Karakul lake (3900m). Before reaching this point a border fence appeared topped by barbed wire. This fence remained with us for the remainder of this day. Looking at the map we were quite a way from the Chinese border and it was only later I found that the fence was actually constructed by the Soviets as a neutral buffer zone barrier against the Chinese when they weren't so friendly in times past. I enjoy taking pictures of power poles and in this case, a border fence, set in picturesque settings so I was very happy it appeared. At Karakul lake we found accommodation and I went for a long stroll along the lake with Itsy, scenic snow-capped mountains encircling the deep blue water. We got warned away by the military when we approached and were about to enter what we thought was an abandoned building but in reality was an army barracks. No harm done.

For the 3rd day we continued our route south. After around an hour our car climbed the highest mountain pass of this trip, the 4655m Ak-Baital pass. Strangely, after the previous day's travails and at 400m higher we had absolutely no issues with no snow to complain about and an asphalt road the whole way! After descending the other side we saw from the road a herd of the rare and threatened Marco Polo sheep. These sheep grow as big as cows and the males have classical coiled horns. They are very shy and the group we saw turned and ran for many kilometers into the mountains a distance away. Our driver seemed surprised; I think we were very lucky to see them. We were supposed to arrive in the town of Murghab around midday and then do a hike between the Psart & Madiyan valleys the next day. We decided instead to save a day by completing the hike straight away. This had its issues as we started much later than was normal with 16km and a 700 meter vertical climb to contend with. This made it a tough day with only a couple of short rests between a fast pace. Pace slowed considerably near the summit (4735m) as the mountain steepened sharply. Unfortunately we ran into a dead end and rather than go back down the mountain 50 meters (a long way to return at this altitude and steepness) Itsy & I instead tried to climb a steep rocky incline. Half way up, stuck, with a crumbing rock face on which I couldn't grip without rocks breaking off and a 20m drop, I admit fear and remorse for attempting such a climb took over. There was no turning back so adrenaline kicked in and eventually you had to suppress the fear and go for it. I am writing this blog so you know the end result. We rendezvoused with our driver in the opposite valley as daylight fast faded. Itsy and me safeguarding the rear. Yami had 'sprinted' off earlier from the summit to meet the driver and Tomo was relentless, a man possessed. Tired and sore sleep came easy.

Day 4 was my favourite. We left Murghab and travelled to some beautiful lakes. Initially the salty Sasykul lake with its changing water colour depending on to which end of the lake you turned, then after we looked down to the distant Bulunkul with hundreds of herd animals looking like specs in the valley between, and then finally onto Yashilkul with its vibrant blue color contrasting splendidly with the stark brown landscape surrounding it. I found my lucky rusty horseshoe at Sasykul which is now firmly a part of my increasingly heavy backpack. We left this area and with it the mainly asphalt road to more of a bumpy dirt flavour. We said goodbye to the Pamir highway and continued to head south for awhile continuing to see the odd beautiful lake until turning west once hitting the Afghanistan border. We were always gradually losing altitude, welcome to Wakhan valley. The border is a river and here the river was not a river, more like an overweight creek. Crossing between sides did not seem like it would be too difficult. The fully snowed in mountains of the Hindu Kush on the Afghanistan side rose imposingly over their closer barren cousins nearer to the river. Mineral deposits created some wonderful sedimentary effects especially when combined with the now setting sun. It was a truly brilliant day that ended in Langar, where we had pasta for dinner! Made a change from the standard soup with a bit of meat in it, bread, yogurt, and a cucumber and tomato sidedish. Oh yeah, we rotated in the car every day and whoever sat in the middle of the back seat got to choose the music. Not sure the others appreciated that idea by day's end (and they still had day 8 to go)!

Although day 5 was a very long drive we still had time to visit a fort perched high above the town of Yamchun. Forts here take a lot of imagination to jigsaw together in your mind to recreate their heyday, but the views from here over the Afghan agricultural land and mountains took no imagination. This side trip would've been worthwhile on its own but just up the road was a natural thermal bath that was at the right temperature and placed in a wonderful setting. I'll let the video do the talking on this one except to say women frequent here as they believe the waters here aid fertility. We visited another thermal spring later in the day (no fertility customs here as far as I know) at Gharm-Chashma. Our Japanese contingent seemed as if they couldn't get enough of these warm bathes while Itsy and I cruised around town. Golam disappeared and was found in his own personal pool after a lot of wondering and waiting. Who is paying who after all? We ended the day in the town of Khorog in a hotel set right by the river. Tomo, Itsy and myself found an Indian restaurant for a feed which Itsy gave a 'not too bad' rating. Unfortunately ratings don't equate to sanitary healthiness, we all got varying degrees of 'issues' from the food.

We had now left the Wakhan valley and with our spare day from our previous hike we decided to...do a hike. We deviated off the Pamir highway (which we had rejoined at Khorog) and entered the Bartang valley. Here we hiked to the peaceful villages of Jizeu and Jizef. At Jizeu the lake (for a change) lacked any type of colour instead being crystal clear. The hike itself took 5 hours (there and back) and while it was definitely worth the admission price (free) wasn't overly beautiful or difficult. Would I recommend it? If you've got a spare day for sure. We met 4 people who were going to stay up there for the evening. Maybe that is the way to go. We stayed back at a homestay about 8km from the trailhead. The food here was wonderful. I just couldn't stop eating the freshly picked walnuts that seemed to melt in your mouth and the mulberries that looked like small sheaths of wheat. Sweet, chewy and yum.

Day 7 & 8 were all about getting back to the capital of Dushanbe. We stopped on the night of day 7 in Kalaikumb While walking around town we were invited into a garden by a local doctor for tea and more beautiful fruits and nuts (can I grow walnut trees in New Zealand? I am definitely going to investigate). Nice fellow with beautiful daughters. Other than that things were fairly non-descript for those final two days but for the overall trip some things did happen. As with seemingly all Central Asian countries the police affect every driver's life profoundly. Each policeman has a red wand that is like a short lightsaber (from Star Wars) and probably just as deadly. You see a wave towards your car means it is time to pull over which isn't a good thing. Throughout the trip we must have pulled over 6-8 times and it became a common joke that when our driver, Golam, reentered our vehicle he would say 'police, police, money, money'. Bribes seem to be the name of the game and once when he said 'police, police, money nata' we assumed he hadn't needed to pay. At least that is what the big smile on his face suggested.

When you spend 8 days with other people you tend to learn things about each of them. This is the one thing I learned from each.
Itsy - if you ask a Hindu for food or water he must give it to you no matter his personal circumstance.
Tomo - there are beggars sleeping in Tokyo's streets.
Yami - told me how an outsider can tell the difference between the Japanese, the Chinese and the South Koreans. The South Koreans can't grow facial hair. The Chinese wear the same coloured clothes both top and bottom and want facial plastic surgery to match the overall looks of the Japanese. I guess that means the Japanese can grow beards, they must wear different colour clothes and are happy with their looks. Interesting(?) and Yami was usually the very quiet person of the group.