Lake Koman

I had decided to get another hike in before winter to the aptly named Accursed Mountains. It really should be renamed the Silly Accursed Mountains because only silly Australians would go to these mountains without first checking the weather, after all these are mountains and it is sort of winter, duh. So the night before leaving, with hotels booked and the early morning taxi ordered the rain started. Hmmm, I thought, wonder what's happening with the weather. Rain, rain, rain for the next few days with the chance of snow in the mountains where my hike was. Too late to change plans so I started the next morning with a 2 hour taxi ride, which was good, as it was not raining inside the cab. Dropped me off at Lake Koman, a man made lake that weaves it's way through steep sided mountains. Running through the lake is one of the highlights of Albania, a spectacular ferry ride, which I duly took. Pity about those pesky low lying clouds, and yes, the driving rain. Still, I enjoyed the trip very much and met a fellow Australian, which was extra good, as he gave me a lift at the other end after initial attempts by the local taxis to rip me off. Unfortunately 'tourist' rates have surfaced with the influx of tourists over the years.

Valbonne

I eventually made it to my destination of a hotel in Valbonne, to quite an unwelcome welcome (from the general ambiance it seemed domestic family issues were to blame). The area was beautiful with snow capped mountains and deep wooded forests. The colors of late autumn lighted up the otherwise dreary cloudy perspective. The rain continued. My plan was to hike across the mountains to what I read was another beautiful setting in a place called Theth. I woke in the morning to steady drizzle and was told it would probably be snowing at altitude, possibly heavy snow, so after much deliberation I decided to cancel the hike. Pretty gutted. The atmosphere within the hotel hadn't improved and when the rain briefly subsided I decided to leave, via foot. An adventure followed as the 25km walk to the next town with rain threatening as well as delivering on it's threat made for a great hike. The walk was so peaceful with no tourists and with the highway ending not far from my starting point meant there was very rarely traffic. After being given another offer at 'tourist' ripoff rates I eventually got a lift with a local guide taking other people to town. It is really nice to come across someone not wanting to take advantage of the situation. Nice English speaking guy who would only accept partial the amount I offered at the end. Can't remember your name but thanks!

Tirana

Next it was a bus to the capital, Tirana. Nice city that I really enjoyed. The highlights were the town's main square with all the people and their daily activities on show, and a museum called Bunk'Art. Bunk'Art is situated in a bunker complex built into the side of a mountain by the previous communist elite during the cold war days. Set upon different levels the museum has set up a combination of contemporary rooms showing how the inhabitants lived during it's heyday to other rooms with their 'active' exhibits - such as a room that filled with 'mustard' gas. Really well done. Definitely worth the visit but definitely don't if you get too claustrophobic.

Kosovo

Pristina

Moving on, my next destination was the country of Kosovo and it's capital Pristina. While pleasant enough (upon my arrival I stumbled upon Bill Clinton Boulevard complete with statue and a diplomatic 'Bill' billboard staring down at me - Bill is liked in these parts) there wasn't too much of interest here. Other than the long and wide main shopping boulevard (thought I'd use this word again, why not, seems apt) my main memories of the place were the fact that I replaced my hiking shoes bought in NZ with exactly the same hiking shoes bought here, and, a Mexican restaurant (Restaurant Mexicano) that served food that was so good I could have stayed here so much longer.

(North) Macedonia

Skopje

Following on I went to Macedonia which has since my visit been renamed to North Macedonia (to appease the Greeks). The capital Skopje was an enigma in itself. Parts of the city were affluently decorated with grandiose modern columned buildings flanked by multitudes of huge marble statues while the Turkish bazaar area was is if it had been left untouched for hundreds of years. It was here that you weaved along cobbled alleyways occasionally stumbling upon hidden mosques. Close by the Tvrdina Kale fortress, perched on it's hilltop, commands views around the city. Pleasant city. Enjoyable.

Ohrid

Continuing my southbound quest I caught a 3 hour bus to what turned out to be a highlight, the town of Ohrid. Ohrid is situated by it's namesake lake, Lake Ohrid. This peaceful lake, surrounded by distant mountains affords some great walks and scenic views. I spent time walking along the lake shore, finishing at the 13th century picturesque Church of Sveti Jovan at Kaneo. I also spent a day walking to the mountains and the village of Ramne.

Greece

Meteora

My next destination was Meteora in Greece. By the way of taxi, bus and hitching I made it to Kozani in Northern Greece the first night followed by bus the next morning to my destination. Meteora is very famous for its many 14th century monasteries that are perched precariously over cliffs atop soaring buttes. Anyway, the pictures can tell the story.

Dilesi

My final weeks in Greece and Europe (for now) were spent leading up to Christmas. I had wanted to do some volunteering to help the refugees and found a NGO, Foodkind, that needed someone. We lived in a shared house near a town called Dilesi. Although Greeks come here for holidays in summer it is not a place on the tourist map for outsiders. Noel, one of the volunteers, had previously lived in Greece and knew the ropes. We had many a good night at the pub or one of the local tavernas. Got to know some of the local bar owners who would give us a plate of food as soon as we walked in the door. The food was relatively cheap and oh so good. He had a car so we toured around on our one day a week off. There were some good times had. But, of course, our main goal was to help the refugees. I spent around 3 weeks at two different camps either chopping vegetables, cleaning, distributing goods and organizing/playing sports. It really was enlightening and fulfilling, placing what you already have in perspective to what could possibly happen in the future. Worked with many nice people and met some great people (and kids) whose life has changed with circumstances. I hope they all find happiness, somehow.