Santa Cruz Trek

After my brush with exhaustion on the Laguna 69 trek I started this trek with much trepidation. I had had the extra day's rest and hoped my recovery from sickness would be sufficient. The Santa Cruz trek is a relatively short 4 day, 3 night 50km walk that starts at 3,900m and at its highest reaches 4,750m. From all my readings it is suggested it is one of South America's (if not the world's) premier hikes as it packs in stacks in such a short time. I am no expert so all I can say is it was the best hike I've ever done. Day 1 is relatively easy as you meander through villages set in lush green valleys with the surrounding hills instinctively rounded in shape contrasting to their nearby snow capped cousins with their sharp craggy rock faces. My group consisted of two Danish sisters, Anne & Ida, our guide Jesus, and finally the odds and ends man, Wheldon. Wheldon's job was interesting as he would be the last to leave in the morning as he packed everything up, loading it onto the donkeys and then zoom past us during the day so that when we would arrive at camp, in the evening, all was ready. Altitude didn't exist in Wheldon's world and fortunately for me (to a lesser extent - for this trip) it didn't for me as well. Which was good as the second day we climbed to the highest point of the hike at 4,750m at Punta Union, a change of approximately 850m from our camp the night before. It was tough going of course, the snow covered mountains had appeared with their glaciers caught between peaked ridges that leapt from the mountain faces. At the time I would have told you that I was always out of breathe, if, I hadn't always been out of breathe. But overall I was really happy, no altitude sickness and fuel left in the tank once we made it to the top. And at the top, what great views. Another turquoise lake surrounded by (yes I could repeat myself but just look at the photos). The difference compared to many of the other views was that here you could peer into the future as you could see the valley stretched out below into the vast distance, the way we would be traversing in the next few days. After a rest we started our way down for 2 hours eventually reaching camp that on this night was going to be at 4,200m.

There were times during this trip that I questioned why I bought such an expensive sleeping bag as everytime it had been cold previously I had been supplied with enough blankets to keep a possie of shorn sheep snug. Well, sleeping at 4,200m in the Cordillera Blanca answered this question. Waking warm and cosy at our usual wake at time of 6am (sleep in it seems when compared to usual) while the tent and surrounds were frozen made me think the investment was worthwhile.

The 3rd day involved a side excursion to another turquoise lake (surprised anyone?) named Lake Arbuaycocha, but this one was fed directly by a glacier that snaked from the mountain above ending at the lapping aqua blue waters (gee I am getting sick of using the word turquoise) of the lake. After this visit it was back to the main trail which we used to make our way down to sandy valley below. A long slog later alternating between the valley floor and its walls we ended up at our camp at now the relatively comfortable altitude of 3,600m.

The last day was relatively easy as we walked the final 4 hours back to the town of Cashapampa. Job done. Really happy. Great trek (nearly forgot, great job by Jesus, always there to answer our questions and cooked some really good tucker.) Also good luck to Anne who is going to Melbourne, Australia for an exchange program and Ida, who has the unenviable position of having to decide if she will be taking another year off from her studies. The last thing about these girls is they should not download and watch Netflix's Gossip Girl - it can't be good for your health!!

About time I started to catch up with my blog so...

I really enjoyed Cusco. Spent about 1 week there and being the staging post for Machu Picchu, as I am sure you can imagine, it was full of tourists. Chocka amount of gringos. But that meant that there were heaps of good places to eat and conversely many great opportunities to get ripped off, but hey, if you looked around there were quite a few hidden gems as well. Stayed in a guesthouse (Paradise) run by Daniel, my friend, and his family. Great positioning (maybe a little uphill, but hey, this is Cusco, hills here, there and everywhere). Really enjoyed my stay, thanks Daniel. I was there for Easter and since Peru is deeply Catholic there was a festival on the Monday (?) before Good Friday. Since I am not deeply Catholic I don't know why they have a festival on the Monday (?) before Good Friday. Who cares, I was there and I went. It started a few hours later from the time I was told, with the square chocka block full of people (2nd use of chocka in one post, should be added to the dictionary). I luckily got a prime position which was great for the parade (of one float) but really bad for the quick getaway before the end (with the late start dinner was really late and I was pretty well hungry). Anyway the parade consisted of a float of Christ on the cross coming up the hill of the main plaza and eventually making his way into the main Church which was then followed by applause from the crowd. I hope Christ moved a bit quicker on his cross (I was hungry!) Hunger aside, enjoyed the experience but the main reason for the trip to Cusco was Machu Picchu.     

A train to Machu Picchu sets you back around US$160 for the round trip (I believe 4 hours total train time, 40 miles). I was told this is the most expensive train trip per kilometer anywhere (bloody foreign train operators making a killing - probably with a dash of corruption thrown in for good measure, is that you cynical Dave?) So why catch the train you say. Well, there are no roads to or airports in Aguas Calientes (the town below the site) and since I was last there they have cut out the loophole of catching the local train (with the locals) that was so, so much cheaper and such a good experience. The site itself sets you back US$50 and to catch a bus up and back US$24. Wait a sec, this is all adding up...  So what do you do. Some bright spark came up with a direct bus to a place called Hidra Electrica (Hydro Electric station) which is about a 2½ hour walk from where you want to go, but no mules!!! Yes, I know, I did it again. Heavy bloody backpack. Clara, a girl I spent a few days with later on, was on that walk, and when we first met after the walk she recalled I was 'the sweaty guy'. Lovely, new nickname maybe, then again maybe not. Anyway, a return trip from Cusco set me back US$12 which is a truckload (or trainload) less than the US$160. Spent a few days in Agua Calientes and of course went up to Machu Picchu (bus up and walk down thank you very much). It is a strange feeling revisiting renowned sites you have been to before. The anticipation and buzz gets toned down a bit, but hey with Machu Picchu this place is magic. No more needs to be said. 

After Machu Picchu I decided it was time to leave Peru. After Cusco it was a quick stopover in Puno before hitting the border and unfortunately the custom's officers. You would think that after all these years I wouldn't do stupid things but while searching for the immigration on the Bolivian side I stuck my head into a window only to see the (now) gleaming face of a custom's official who promptly asks me to join him in his office. One official quickly became two and when the latter closed the office door I knew what was the general gist of what was to transpire. After showing my passort I walked promptly over to the closed door and opened it. Didn't ask, just did. After a few queries about if I had any drugs they checked my bag (they were very curious about my vegemite) and then we got down to the real business of why I was in here. 'Do you smoke' was followed by 'Have you any American dollars'. Fortunately I don't smoke so that was easy and I said that I had a 'carte' (card) and would go to an ATM in La Paz (good lie - must have had a good sleep the night before, quick and confident answers). By this time I was giving the shakes of the head and saying 'No, no , no Senor' showing that I understood the situation. Anyway their final ploy was to ask for a donation. Upon pulling the princely sum of US$0.15 in Peruvian coins and placing it in front of the statue of the Virgin Mary they let me go. No harm done, no problema. Onwards to Bolivia.